Mayor Gary Paxton may not have spent much time in Russia, but he has read War and Peace — chapter by chapter — a few times. That was one of many tidbits of casual conversation he shared with Russian Ambassador Anatoly Antonov this morning. The ambassador paid a visit to Sitka on Wednesday (6/19/19). It was one of several Alaska stops on a history and culture tour. City officials welcomed him with a packed day of sightseeing, photo-ops, and more.

“It seems to me you’re only one family, small town life,” Ambassador Antonov said. “Here, you know everybody.”

Which is what it must have been like where he calls home, too. Ambassador Antonov grew up in Siberia where, he says, you cannot suffer from frost because it’s a dry climate. He warned against the humidity in places like Moscow. Or for that matter, Sitka year-round or Washington, DC in the summer.

After the introductions were over, the Ambassador and the Mayor held a photo op in Totem Square. The two parted as friends — with a future date for lunch, Russian-style.

“If you have time to visit for example Washington it will be honor [sic] for me to welcome you in my residence,” Ambassador Antonov said. He promised Mayor Paxton that he would organize a lunch of Russian delicacies so he could compare local offerings to the diplomat-version.

“I will be waiting for you in Washington,” the Ambassador said.  “Not in Russia, for a while.”

Mayor Paxton then handed the Ambassador off to Mary Miller, the superintendent of Sitka National Historical Park. Miller led a climb up to Castle Hill, where she briefed the Ambassador on local history with the help of Dave McMahan, the former state archaeologist. Ambassador Antonov was eager to learn.

“Please don’t forget, it is the first visit to Sitka,” he said. “That’s why I don’t know anything.”

Miller explained how the Castle Hill park was originally a Tlingit site called Noow Tlein. The Russian’s took possession of this site and built Baranof Castle. Castle Hill is the former site of Baranof Castle, built on land the Russians seized from the Sitka Tlingit following the Battle of 1804. It’s also the very place where the United States flag was first raised over Alaska in 1867.  “It’s the high ground,” Miller said.

Ambassador Antonov seemed to expect something grander. “It’s very interesting that you call it castle,” he said. “Not house. Not fortress. Why castle?”

McMahan, the former state archaeologist explained how Baranof used to sponsor balls, dances, and more. Ambassador Antonov remained unconvinced. “But space, it’s not enough for balls, for dancing,” he said.

The castle burned 125 years ago, and the site is now  a small, grass-covered park. Ambassador Antonov nevertheless was intrigued by the remaining cannons.  

“Is it possible to use them now?” he asked.

“Anything is possible,” Miller said. Ambassador Antonov explained that there are similar cannons in St Petersburg. “Sometimes we offer it to tourists to show that we’re still alive,” he said.

Although Sitka has no immediate plans to fire up its old guns, the mini history lesson at Castle Hill left the Ambassador thoughtful and optimistic.

“It’s very difficult to understand your history just by the first glance,” he said. He went on to discuss how he sees and feels a lot of common history between Sitka and the homeland.

“I just want that other people have positive attitudes toward Russia toward Russian people,” he said. “I want to convey this message that we would like to be friends, there is nothing drastic between us, just some misunderstanding, what we want, just only more conversation.

And that includes conversation with ordinary American tourists like one visiting Castle Rock who seized the chance to photograph an actual Russian, in the former capital of Russian America.

“Can I take a picture?” she asked.

Ambassador Antonov was thrilled at the request, extended his hand, and the cameras fired away. After his visit to Castle Hill, the Ambassador piled into a car accompanied by aides, Russian reporters, and Sitka officials for a full day of more first glances.

The St. Michael’s dilemma: One of the oldest, continuously-operating religious institutions in the state, the cathedral is also an iconic landmark. “St. Michael’s is Sitka,” said assembly member Steven Eisenbeisz. (KCAW photo/Robert Woolsey)

The Sitka assembly — on first reading — agreed to donate $5,000 to renovation work at St. Michael’s Cathedral.

But it was not a slam-dunk decision by the assembly, some of whom had qualms over donating public funds to a religious institution.

Downloadable audio.

Assemly member Richard Wein reported that the total expense of the cathedral renovation was $132,000, about half of which was raised. “I’m writing my own check,” he said, “because it’s so easy to give away other peoples’ money.” (KCAW photo/Robert Woolsey)

The existing building is a replica of the one built by the Russians in the 19th Century. The original was destroyed by a fire that swept through downtown Sitka in 1966. The site is a National Historic Landmark.

Assembly member Kevin Knox was among the majority who thought contributing to the renovation was a benefit to Sitka.

“It’s beyond iconic. It’s one of those things that brings people here,” said Knox.

The ordinance was co-sponsored by member Steven Eisenbeisz, who owns a downtown retail store. He anticipated that there might be spirited conversation over the donation, because the cathedral is a functioning church, and a part of a much larger national religious organization (the Orthodox Church in America) that should probably fund it’s own repairs.

“On the other hand, using bed tax which is funded by our visitors, to help with a remodel with what is probably the most famous building in Sitka — it’s featured in tons of advertising for Sitka. The church is Sitka,” said Eisenbeisz.

The money for the donation would come from the 6-percent bed tax levied on hotels and B&B’s. The city has accumulated a “Visitor Enhancement Fund” of over $304,000 to improve the visitor experience. Most on the assembly thought St. Michael’s qualified.

Member Aaron Bean did not. He had this exchange with the ordinance’s other co-sponsor, Bob Potrzuski.

Bean – I disagree. I think that it’s a church, and it’s an active church. It’s not a historical one. If we were talking about the church that doesn’t have services over here — next to Crescent and the Bayview Trading Company (the chapel inside the Russian Bishop’s House) — I would agree. But it’s active, and it’s no question that it’s a religious matter.
Potrzuski – Let me clarify, Aaron. It’s certainly an active church. There is religion going on there. But my vote is not geared toward that religion, it’s geared toward what it brings to the economy of Sitka.

The donation passed on first reading with only Bean opposed. Member Richard Wein said that he would also write a personal check, because as assembly members he believed they should be cautious about donations. “Giving away other people’s money is so easy,” he said.

A wild Oddish wanders down Lincoln Street. Photo by KCAW/Katherine Rose

A zombie horde has taken to Sitka’s streets. But instead of hunting for blood, they’re using their smartphones to capture creatures, with names like Pikachu and Charmander. KCAW’S Katherine Rose went out into the night to figure out how to play like a Pokemon master.

Downloadable audio.

So I’m standing outside of the radio station. It’s dark out. There’s a single security light casting a yellow glow on the pavement. And in the shadows, I see a group of guys huddled next to a large, black dumpster. A police officer pulls up. Rolls down his window, and sticks his head out. He knows what they’re up to.

“You guys playing Pokemon GO?” he asks.

(Pokemon theme song rises)

Pokemon GO is based on an incredibly popular Japanese franchise. There are video games and trading cards, TV shows and toys. And now, there’s a game for smart phones that’s taking the world – and Sitka – by storm.

“I’d say the best thing I’ve caught is a high level squirtle.”

“Downtown is pretty lousy with pigeons and rats.”

“I caught a Pikachu. I was leaving work, and there was group of people and they were like ‘There’s a Pikachu behind Ernie’s!’ and I was like well I might as well follow this crowd.”

But what IS Pokemon GO, exactly?

It’s a game for your smart phone, that brings together GPS and camera technology. You’re a Pokemon trainer. You walk around on what is essentially a colorful google map of your location, looking for little creatures known as Pokemon. They appear on your screen as they would in real life. When you get close to one, your phone buzzes.

(Buzz sound)

Using your finger, you swipe the screen. This flicks a Pokeball at the Pokemon, and if your aim is good the Pokemon is yours! You can use it to fight other Pokemon and claim gyms. There are gyms at the Russian Orthodox Church, at SEARHC, even at the post office. But what’s the app user’s biggest battle in Sitka?

“Well you’re fighting for 4G access when the tourist are here…and then you’re fighting the entire world to get on the servers,” says Josh Joseph. He plays in his spare time, and as an assessor in city hall he can’t fully escape the allure of the little critters.

“There’s a gym right above my office. During a break I’ll check just to see who owns it. It’s not enough time to fight it. Usually at night time is when the servers get good, you’ll see a lot of people wandering around town trying to battle those things,” says Joseph.

And, in fact, there’s a cluster of kids outside city hall. They weren’t super into talking to me. They were just trying to catch all of the Squirtles. But there are other benefits to using Pokemon Go. Namely, that it forces you to move.

“You can hatch eggs which are based off of kilometers that you walk. It’s kind of a fitness app in a way. I’ve seen people geek out just as hard for a Fitbit or any other fitness app,” says Joseph.

Not everyone feels so fondly about the app, though. At the Sitka Fine Arts Camp, when the app was released, phone-use skyrocketed. And that is a problem, says Autumn McCumiskey, the camp’s director of students, because phones generally aren’t allowed during class time.

“Every time I went into the counseling office, it was Pokemon this, and wiggly hoo-haa is doing this thing,” says McCumiskey. “It just felt like it was something that was taking over every conversation. It felt like instead of talking about “what did you paint today, or how did your dance class go, or did you finally stick that mount in partner acrobatics, it was ‘have you seen that Orthodox Church Gym? Isn’t that funny?”

McCumiskey adds that the app was released during the high school camp, which is a bit more relaxed,  But the camp is cracking down on game use this week, for a camp-wide production of Guys and Dolls. Here’s student Jack Hale.

“I downloaded it, and it took, like, an hour because “Sitka” and it’s been really fun. There’s been a lot of opportunity to play it, but then again you’re constantly in rehearsal, doing stuff. When you come to Sitka, Musical Theater, everyone is really sort of devoted to be there, so you don’t want to waste time on your phone.”

There’s one place the campers probably won’t be going though, and it’s unfortunate because it seems like it’s chock full of Snorlax and Jigglypuffs.

Joseph: “If we go near Ernie’s, I’m sure we’ll find something.”

KCAW:  “Why Ernies?”

Joseph: “I don’t know, they’re just lousy birds that like to hang out at bars, I guess.”

So if you’re looking for a beer and a Pidgey, maybe you could kill two birds with one stone…or capture two Pokemon with one flick of the wrist.

Bishop David of Alaska visited Sitka for St. Michael’s Feast Day in November, 2014. (KCAW photo/Rachel Waldholz)

When David Mahaffey was installed as the Orthodox Bishop of Alaska in a ceremony in Sitka this past February, he became the 16th leader of America’s oldest Orthodox diocese.

Bishop David has now been on the job for nine months. He returned to Sitka this fall, and discussed the role he thinks the Church should play in the state.

Downloadable audio

Under the Julian calendar, St. Michael’s Feast falls in late November. It was a natural time to return to Sitka, and to St. Michael’s Cathedral, where David Mahaffey became Bishop David of Alaska last spring.

But traveling is nothing unusual for this bishop. He leaves his Anchorage home almost every weekend to visit his far-flung flock.

“We go back to the words spoken by, many many years ago in the early church by St. Ignatius of Antioch,” he said. “‘Where the bishop is, there is the Church.’”

In Alaska, that can be uniquely difficult.

“There’s three challenges in Alaska: distance, distance and distance,” he said. “And did I mention, distance is a challenge.”

Bishop David served as administrator of the diocese for about year before being installed in his new role. He says that for the most part, his job is simply continuing what the church has always done.

“By and large, for me, anyway, the Diocese of Alaska is very much a very traditional, well-oiled Orthodox machine,” he said. “The bishop just has to take his hand on the tiller and keep it in the right direction.”

But he would like to see the Orthodox Church play a larger role in dealing with some of the big issues facing Alaska, including the state’s high rates of suicide, alcoholism and domestic violence.

“We have to be here for the needs of the people,” he said. “I can’t be saved without you, and you can’t be saved without me…that is an underlying principle of everything we do as Orthodox Christians. We understand that  we need to bring our neighbor along with us if we are going to enter the Kingdom of Heaven. We can’t do it alone.”

The bishop said he thinks the Orthodox perspective has something to add to traditional clinical approaches when it comes to issues like addiction or depression.

“In Orthodoxy, we don’t look at people, we never like to use the word ‘individual,'” he said. “It isolates you, it makes you nobody but yourself.”

That sense of community is one piece of it. Another is a sense of purpose.

“The role of the Church is to show the person, God made you for a reason, and you might have to spend your whole life figuring out what that is,” he said. “Do you think that I, 20, 30 years ago, if someone would have said to me, you know someday you’re going to be the bishop in Alaska, I would have laughed at you. Because I’m from Pennsylvania, and I liked Pennsylvania just fine, but this is what I felt called to do…”

“And so my goal is always to find that person, and help direct them, to say to them, you have a purpose in life, and  your job, if you will,  is to find out what that is.”

As for Bishop David himself, he says that though his calling was unexpected, so far it suits him. As an east coaster transplanted to the last frontier, he’s surprised by how much time he spends on planes, and how little in cars; he’s learned never to schedule distant events back to back in case the weather intervenes. And he’s learning to recognize the different tunes used for hymns in Alaska’s distinct regions.

But, he says, at the end of the day, orthodoxy, is, well, orthodox, no matter where you go.

“Same liturgy,” he said. “Done in Russia, done in the Middle East…and of course, here in Alaska.”